When it comes to estimating pond or lake size, it’s not important why the pond was constructed, but only that you calculate the pond’s size accurately. Many pond owners of small ponds want bass, but small ponds not suited for bass populations. This is primarily because bass harvest management in small ponds is especially difficult and unrewarding, as nearly all bass caught must be released to prevent overpopulation by forage fish.

In small ponds, it is usually better to stock only catfish since they provide more fishing recreation, food for the table, and can be fed commercially prepared feed. Ponds larger than 1 surface acre are more suitable for multiple fish species. If these larger ponds undergo proper fish stocking, are managed and harvested properly, then you can expect many years of satisfactory fishing for all sport species, including largemouth bass. Of course, the pond could still be managed for producing quality catfish. The choice is yours, but only if the size of your pond is adequate.

Many pond owners have difficulty estimating the surface area of their ponds. In fact, it is easy to overestimate pond size, but this is not a good thing. An overestimate of size often leads to overstocking of fish. If your pond fluctuates considerably in surface area, make sure to stock it based on the average annual low water surface area. This is more conservative, but a realistic approach for pond management purposes. Remember that 1 surface acre contains 43,560 square feet. Formulas for calculating the surface area in acres of the most common pond shapes—square or rectangular, triangular, and round—are provided above to assist you in determining the size of your pond. Make sure all dimensions are measured in feet. Good luck estimating the size of your pond!

The creation of submerged brush piles is an excellent tool for developing underwater habitat in ponds devoid of weeds. Any available woody trees or shrubs can be used to make a brush pile. Keep in mind that the more vertical the pile, the better for fish. Cedar and discarded Christmas trees can be set into cement blocks, secured with polypropylene rope, and set upright on the pond bottom. Several trees located together work better than single trees. Since they degrade, brush piles generally have to be replaced every 2 to 4 years.

Another great pond management tool for creating fish structure is stake beds. Any type of wooden stakes can be driven into the pond bottom or nailed to a weighted frame and sunk. The stakes should be placed 6 to 8 inches apart, and the bed should cover an area of about 200 square feet. The stakes should extend from the shoreline into water that is from 6 to 8 feet deep. The tops of the stakes should extend out of the water so they can be located easily while fishing. Pieces of plastic pipe can also be used as stakes, especially when set in concrete within plastic buckets.

Another option for creating fish habitat is through the use of automobile tires. Old tires can be used to construct a satisfactory permanent fish structure, but they must be prepared properly. First slit them to allow them to sink and prevent them from floating around the pond. Then tie them together with polypropylene rope to keep them in position. Adding one or two cement blocks to the bundle will help stabilize your tire structure. The higher the structure is above the bottom of the pond, the more cover it will afford fish populations. Pyramid-shaped bundles are commonly used with great success for artificial fish structures. Tires can be covered with brush to further increase their attractiveness to fish. Tires tossed in a pond at random will either wash ashore or silt in and provide no fishery benefits, so take your time when creating fish structure for your pond.

In summary, creating fish habitat through the addition of pond structure is a great pond management tool. Pond structure provides small fish with a place to hide and big fish with a place to feed. It is especially helpful to small fingerlings after fish stocking occurs in a pond. Big fish eat small fish, but some small fish are required to become big fish. Pond structure will also allow anglers to pin-point these sites while fishing. Fish structure can really add a lot of ponds devoid of vegetation or downed trees, so consider placing structure within your pond for fish habitat.

Pond Site – Site selection is extremely important when it comes to building a pond. I suggest contacting your local Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) office and they can assist in site selection, soil suitability, engineering survey, and design. They can estimate the cost of the earthwork, make quality control checks during construction, and provide information on other aspects of planning, design, and pond construction.

Before you design your pond, consider the shape of the land, water supply, and soil type. If possible, consider more than one location, and study each one to select the most practical, attractive, and economical site.

Pond Soil – Suitable soil is one of the primary factors in selecting a pond site. The soil should contain a layer of material that water will not seep through. Clays and silty clays are excellent soils for holding water. Sandy clays can work, but avoid soils that are well drained. To determine suitability, take soil samples at frequent intervals and have them analyzed. Again, the NRCS office can assist with this evaluation. Not evaluating soil strata properly could result in a pond that will not hold water, and that will make proper pond management very difficult. After all, you need water to have a pond!

An NRCS or county extension agent can advise you how to collect soil
samples for analysis to determine the soil pH and lime requirements (of the pond bottom) for the site you have selected. Most state soil testing labs charge only a small fee for soil samples, and they are well worth the costs.

Topography – Consider topography first when it comes to pond construction because it directly affects building costs and pond management. Put the pond where enough water can be impounded with the least amount of earth fill. A good site is usually one where you can build a dam across a narrow section of a valley and where the slope of the valley floor lets you flood a large area. Such sites are ideal and minimize areas of shallow water.

Avoid large areas of shallow water because they become too shallow to use in late summer and fall dry periods, and they encourage undesirable aquatic plants (weeds). However, if you are interested in providing additional habitat for waterfowl, then these shallow areas should be considered an asset to your pond. However, additional management practices will be necessary to maintain this habitat on an annual basis.

Pond Water Supply – Water should be adequate, but not excessive, and may be provided by springs, wells, or surface runoff. For ponds where surface runoff is the main source of water, the contributing drainage area should be large enough to maintain a suitable water level during dry periods. This is critical.

However, the drainage area should not be so large that expensive
overflow structures are needed and water exchange occurs too
frequently. As a rule of thumb, a pond should have 5 to 10 acres of
drainage area for each acre of impounded water. The amount of
runoff to be expected from a watershed depends on topography,
soil type, and plant cover. Make sure to keep the watershed planted in healthy grass cover to prevent muddy water after each rain. Good grass cover

Keep in mind that deeper ponds do not necessarily produce more fish than shallow ponds. In fact, shallow ponds tend to be more productive, but ponds that are too shallow suffer the risk of drying under summer drought. The average pond depth should be about 4 feet. This lets fish forage on the bottom, even in summer, when low oxygen concentrations are common in deeper water, while maintaining enough depth to sustain the fish during drought.

Pond Management – Proper pond construction will go a long ways towards allowing pond owners get maximum enjoyment from their pond while minimizing maintenance. Before building your pond, use the above information to do it right from the start and your pond will provide recreational opportunities for a lifetime.

The problem is most common in the winter months, especially following rainy periods. The usual result is a few dead fish every day. These fish will typically be of several species and sizes. The best solution is to prevent this problem by having your water checked for pH, hardness (calcium and magnesium) and alkalinity. In ponds with low pH and minerals, the solution is to apply 1 to 2 tons of crushed limestone (ag-lime like they put on pastures, not hydrated, quick or slaked lime) per surface acre spreading it as widely as possible in the pond.

This usually results in a quick end to fish losses. The treatment may last from one to several years depending on the water and rainfall. Once this problem is identified in a pond, an annual water check would be a good idea as a preventative pond management method. You are likely to have pH and mineral problems in your pond if:

1. You are in a region with acidic soils. Contact your local Extension agent for advice. Also be suspicious if there are a lot of pine trees around.
2. Your pond water is very clear or tea-colored, a possible sign of acidity.
3. Your pH is below 7 and your alkalinity and hardness are below 25 ppm.
4. Fish die in cool weather following rain.
5. The dead fish are several species and sizes.

Because ponds and lakes vary so much, fish stocking strategies must vary between water bodies, even on the same property! It is always a good idea to contact your local fisheries biologist or even a lake management expert before you stock your pond. I would caution against contacting a fish hatchery. Though many are good guys, remember that these companies are in the business of selling you fish. By identifying the proper stocking rate for your pond up front you will likely save yourself both time and money. Identifying your objectives and goals up front will mean that your first fish stocking could very well be your last.

The rate at which your pond is stocked with fish will depend on your pond management program. In short, whether you fertilize your lake or not will make a big difference in the fish carrying capacity. Persons stocking unfertilized ponds should stock about 500 bluegills, 50 bass, and about 75 catfish per acre. On the flip side, persons stocking fertilized–or naturally fertile ponds–should stock about 1,000 bluegill, 75 bass, and 150 catfish per acre. If you plan on feeding the fish within your pond, then you can even add about 25 to 50 more bass a bluegill per acre.

For pond owners that want only catfish, it is suggested that about 150 catfish be stocked per acre after a prior stocking of forage fish, such as fathead minnows. If the pond is naturally fertile or pond fertilization is planned, then a stocking rate of 300 catfish per acre is recommended. Fertilization allows a pond to be more productive, but nothing means quality fish production like fish feeding. If feeding of catfish is planned, then pond owners can stock up to 1,000 fish per acre! Keep in mind that the rate at which any fish grows is a product of it’s environment, and your pond management objectives must always be kept in mind. Too many fish with not enough food means small fish. On the opposite hand, abundant food with fewer fish means faster growth and bigger fish!

These fish stocking rates are generalizations for all around pond and lake management, so you can replace bluegill with redear sunfish or other perch. Remember that predatory fish such as largemouth bass should be stocked several months after establishing the forage populations of bluegills or fathead minnows or fingerling channel catfish. The stocking rate for largemouth bass will very much depend on your bass management goals. More bass means smaller bass, while fewer means you will grow large bass!